A Day at the (Brighton) Beach

It was so sunny and lovely today. I had to get out of the slope and into the sunshine -- so I headed for the boardwalk that runs along Coney Island and Brighton Beach. I wasn't really in the mood for Coney's boarded-up freakshows (everything's kinda closed right now), so I took the F to Avenue X and hiked due east along Shell Avenue towards the Brighton area.

For those who don't know, the Brighton Beach area has been home to a sizable Russian population since the 1980s. The neighborhood is somewhat more diverse now, but it is very much still home to many Russians. Brighton Beach Avenue is the main drag, and is lined for at least 10 blocks with Russian grocery stores, boutiques, and the large night club/restaurants for which the neighborhood is famous.

Food shopping on Brighton Beach Ave is an eye-popping experience. And I could not resist stopping in to a shop or seven on my way to the boardwalk. I'm not all that knowledgable about Russian food, and my two years of Russian in college have been reduced to me slowly mouthing phonetic interpretation of cyrillic letters, and hazarding a guess at meaning. So I ventured in to the stores, and just peered around.

Here's a shot of M&I International Foods, where I spent the most time gawking at the wares. I'd say this store is the same size of Zabar's in Manhattan, if not larger and louder. There was counter after counter of smoked fish, breads, desserts, meats, prepared salads, prepared hot foods such as pelmeni and potato pancakes, that cream-and-mushroom-lasagna dish, and of course borscht and sour cabage soup.

Sorry for the lack of photos -- the folks working in these establishments didn't look like they would take too kindly to having their various competing stores photographed. Well, basically, I didn't want to look like a spy. But here are some observations about the food:

1) I have previously discussed how much I love "things wrapped in dough." Russian grocery stores are FILLED with things wrapped in dough.

At separate stores, I sampled a hamentaschen-esque jam-filled cookie ($.25), and a puff of fried dough filled with tangy ricotta-esque cheese ($.50). The brusque lady behind the counter informed me that I could purchase puffs of fried dough were filled with meat, egg, cherries, or cabbage. I declined, and kept shopping.

2) Russians LOVE fish. Store after store was filled with dried whole fishes, smoked fish, caviar, deli salads, soups, all filled with fish. It's so affordable -- I got a 1/2lb of smoked salmon for $3.00. I guess the high demand and competition between vendors drives prices down. But what's this about?

3) Bread is cheap. I purchased a round loaf of brown bread for $1.50. A similar item would have run me $3.99 at my local slope D'Ag.

4) Desserts are baroque -- but they all taste the same. Just plain SWEET. Chocolate? Just tastes sweet. Hazelnut? The same -- sweet.

For my light meal before heading off to the boardwalk, I sat down at M&I's upstairs cafe and feasted on a dollop of dill/radish/scallion/mayo salad (yummy -- I could only eat half), a plate of smoked salmon and scallions, and a soft, oniony chicken dumpling. A total of $2.89.

I exercised restraint in picking items to take home. Final haul: a bottle of riesling from Baden (yes, I chose it for the MONKEY on the bottle). At the liquor store, I was faced with an enormous selection of Moldavian wine, much of which was packaged in what I can only call "non-traditional wine packaging." That is, some of the bottles were shaped liked people. But I digress. I also picked up the bread and salmon, as I mentioned above, as well as a sour-cherry coffee cake thing, and handfuls of chocolate covered cherries and pistachios from a nut place. Not a bad score.

And yes, I did make it to the boardwalk. And it was beautiful.

And as I was hopping on the Q train to head back to the slope, the air was suddenly filled with accordion music, played by an old-timer who just seemed happy to be outside after the winter.

Comments

[joge]

Hon your brighton trip was well documented.
keep up the good work.
did you get my mason-dinner pictures?
Love dud

[kolyan]

ochen klasno

[David]

many americans are afraid to shop in russian populated areas. Why? Many reasons

[RisaG]

I used to live in Coney Island and walked to Brighton Beach Avenue every Saturday to do my vegetable shopping. I also loved going into M&I and buying caviar (it was very reasonable there) and other items. It was hard to shop there though as I did not understand much Russian, altho' my grandparents were Russian and spoke it around the house.

I still love going back. The area has personality. And walking on the boardwalk, even when it is freezing out, is a thrill. Just to see the water and breathe in the salty air.

When I go back (in a few weeks), I intend to go to M&I after I go to the Aquarium with my son. M&I and hopefully Mrs Stahl's (if open) are the two places I look forward to going to. I love Little Odessa!

[ted johnson]

I am planning to visit Brighton Beach with a senior citizen group. I would like some info on some very reasonable food places, and shopping places. I like unusual places, and atmosphere doesn't bother me if it is a little weird. Thank you Ted Johnson